Emulsified Body Scrubs

January 19th, 2012 § 0 comments § permalink

scrub-lovely-herbs-1

 

After much time and toil, I finally concocted the my ideal body scrub.

In the past, I simply mixed olive oil and sea salt and enjoyed it just fine as an invigorating, polishing, moisturizing scrub, but it left much to be desired. It was hard to clean up after, in the tub, on my linens and on my skin. I love, love, love olive oil as a moisturizing body oil, but as a scrub it behaves quite differently, mostly because of the sheer quantity needed to be a vehicle for the exfoliating salt. It doesn’t wash off, which is bad because the salt needs to come off, unless you can lounge about your bathroom all day until it is dried (I fantasize about days like that).

The first modification I tried was making a lotion based scrub, using Rosemary’s Perfect Cream recipe (an all-time favorite) and mixing in the salt. It was a slight improvement. It too felt greasy in such large quantities; as a lotion only a tiny drop will do the job, so anything more than a pea-size dab is overkill.

I was just about the give in and buy one, taking the walk of DIYer’s shame into the New Seasons’ body care isle. But then I came across a recipe on the inter-webs for an EMULSIFIED sugar scrub WITH SOAP and WATER added. Brilliant! The castile liquid soap would make it sudsy and easy to clean off. My enthusiasm waned as I read the recipe. It called for all sorts of crazy ingredients: parabens, steric acid (not terrible, but not something I keep in my supplies), preservatives, fragrance oils, chemical waxes, that sort of thing. I didn’t have them around and I wasn’t about to purchase them nor use ingredients I can’t pronounce.

A week or two of tweaking and experimenting with proportions and ingredients led to a body scrub I can get behind. I used to sauna and shed my skin on a regular basis in Minnesota. Where we live now, I have just a few minuet to shower before all the hot water disappears. As you can obviously see, I am suffering an exfoliating deficiency, and this body scrub is my gateway to the land of everyday luxuries.

Basic Proportions for Emulsified Body Scrub

  • 29.5g  Shea and cocoa butter
  • 54g  Apricot kernal Oil and herb infused olive oil
  • 20g Candelilia Wax (a vegan, plant derived wax)
  • 5g Emulsifying Wax (plant derived)
  • 85g Water
  • 85g Castile liquid soap (Dr. Bronner’s)
  • 600g Salt or sugar, ground to almost fine.

Yeah, I used grams. I am a metric type of girl. have a postal scale, but you could use a fancy kitchen scale.

I also didn’t follow this recipe to the “T”. But here are the basic directions:

  • Melt the solid butters (shea and cocoa) in the liquid oils by placing a glass jar (I use an old Pyrex measuring cup with a handle) in a hot water bath.
  • When melted all the way, add about half of your waxes into the oils. Stir until melted.
  • Remove oil jar from water, let cool for a few minuets on counter, then place in the fridge to cool for about 5-10 mins.
  • Check the consistency of the oil after it has cooled a bit. It should be a little thick and opaque with a little bit of a meniscus on the top, but not solid like a salve. If it looks 100% like oil, put the jar back in the hot water bath and add more of your waxes, a bit at a time. I usually melt and cool a total of two times before I like it. If you add too much beeswax, it will be much harder, like lip balm, and make a waxy scrub or lotion. To dilute, add more oils and melt, cool until you like it.
  • Pour oil into a mixing bowl. Stir a few times.
  • Pout the water and soap into the bowl with the oil.
  • Mix with a beater for 3-5 mins, until thick and creamy, with bubbles.
  • Stir in a preservative, if you like. I choose freshly wilted rosemary, which is a great antioxidant. Vitamin E oil or rosemary oil (not essential oil) work well, too. A teaspoon will do.
  • Pour in salt or sugar. Make sure it is ground finely, but not so fine that they are powdery. Stir until well absorbed.
  • Mix in essential oils, herbs, whatever floats your boat. Start with just a couple of drop of essential oils, don’t overdo it.
  • Bottle, label, use liberally and frequently for smooth skin. Store excess in the fridge to keep the oils from oxidizing prematurely. Keeps a little over a year.

Top left: Comfrey oil.

Top right: Chamomile oil.

Bottom left: Arnica oil.

Bottom right: St. John’s wort oil.

Start with quailty herb-infused oil. I like olive oil. Add skin-soothing herbs like calendula, chamomile, comfrey or plantain to a jar with a lid. Cover with oil, so the herbs are covered by at least two inches of oil. Let steep for 4-6 weeks, or longer. Shake the jar often, let it bask in the light on your window sill. Look inside to wipe out any mold that may be growing on the lid (happens once in a great while).

 

Top left: I don’t have the sunniest window, nor do I live in the sunniest town, so I helped my herbs steep a bit more by giving them a hot water bath in the crock pot. Use a warm setting for about an hour. Use a thermometer, the water should be under 110 degrees. I have lost more than a few batches by frying my herbs in the oil, which is what happens when the temp gets too high. Crunchy herbs are not good.

Top right: Strain the herbs, let sit for a few days, decant (pour off) the clear oil from the bottom of the jar goo. It’s not bad goo, it just changes the color and consistency of an oil. Save it for a salve.

Bottom left: Ingredients you may need.

Bottom right: Chunks of shea and cocoa butter floating in the liquid oils.

Top left: The oil is a little opaque from the wax, which becomes apparent after it is cooled a bit.

Top right: The water and soap is poured in, and is already getting a little creamy.

Bottom left: Whip it! Whip it good! One beater will do the job.

Bottom right: Smooth and creamy, light and fluffy after about 3-5 mins of beating.

Top left: Salt is a moisture-sucker. The salt scrub was much thicker, dryer, than the sugar scrub even though I used the same amount of each.

Top right: I poured some lovely green comfrey oil to thin it out a bit.

Bottom left: You can see that the salt scrub is still a bit dry compared to the sugar scrub.

Bottom right: Added even more oil; now it is better. Next time I will add less salt.

Experiment with herbs and oils for scent, visual appeal (aka beauty) and skin soothing effects. The options are endless!

Left top: Sugar scrub. Chopped rose petals and cardamom seeds. Just a litte bit of cardamom, it is pretty potent.

Right top: Salt scrub, with a tiny bit of ground juniper berries and orange essential oil. Very fresh smelling.

Left bottom: Rosemary mint salt scrub; chopped fresh rosemary and mint essential oils.

Right bottom: Sugar scrub, dried and ground chamomile and lavender mixed throughout. This one smells like a cup of tea, yummy!

 

Blue Cohosh ~ Caulophyllum thalictroides

November 14th, 2011 § 2 comments § permalink

After a bout of tossing and turning, I got out of bed and wandered to my book shelf. Matthew Wood’s Healing Wise – New World Plants edition called to me, so I picked it up and randomly opened it to the entry on blue cohosh, Caulophyllum thalictroides. As I read, I realized that I needed to learn much more about this Eastern US woodland herb in the Berberidaceae than I thought.

I have been a birth doula since 2006, and although I haven’t been a bustling, full-time doula, and I don’t use herbs during labor per se (which is kind of out of a doulas’ scope of practice anyways), I still consider herbs for pregnancy one of my favorite topics. From talking to midwives, herbalists and moms with personal experience, I had never heard a positive story about the popular black and blue cohosh combination used during the last few weeks of pregnancy to prepare the uterus for labor, or to induce labor after the due date. Comments include three accounts of allergic reactions, most accounts of nothing happening after taking it, and one women who thought that it induced labor too early and contributed to a long labor.

When people asked me about preparing for labor in the last few weeks of pregnancy, I would talk about positions, yoga, exercise, sexual activity, rest and relaxation, visualizations and affirmations, nutrition and hydration (including herbal teas, of course), but I never thought to mention an herbal partus perpatorus. This is mostly because of what I heard from herbalists and/or midwives like Aviva Jill Romm.

Romm, who is a midwife, mentions that blue cohosh is an herb contraindicated for use in pregnancy, and she says that

“Blue cohosh has been implicated in at least one and possibly several incidences of cardiac problems in newborns, including myocardial infarction  (heart attack) when taken by pregnant mothers in the last three weeks of pregnancy, even when used in the generally recommended doses. Blue cohosh has not been associated in the medical literature with problems when used short-term during labor, but the potential for such problems cannot be entirely discounted. Again, the use of blue cohosh as a general late pregnancy tonic is not advisable, it should never be taken prior to three weeks before the due date, and its use is best left to qualified health professionals.”

Romm does mention the use of black and blue cohosh might be indicated to help promote uterine contractions when the due date has come and gone, and that together, the cohosh pair may be a better alternative to pitocin induction. She also says that blue cohosh can both relax and tone the uterus and that “the right balance of relaxation and tone is necessary for effective flavored. The use of many such herbs was taught to us by Native American women, who have long use herbs in late pregnancy for the purpose of easy birth.” Conflicting information, no?

On one hand, a few (or even just one) isolated incidences of cardiac problems make using this herb ‘not advisable’, on the other hand, a long-standing Native American use makes it sound not only perfectly safe, but something desirable.

The medical journal that Romm discusses is a 1998 issue of Journal of Pediatrics. She states that blue cohosh contains alkaloids and cardiac glycosides, which are well-known in the herbal and medical community to having effect on cardiac muscles. Romm also states that blue cohosh, black cohosh, partridgeberry, and spikenard were used as a partus preparators, or herbs that were taken towards the end of the pregnancy to prepare the body in uterus for labor. Romm states that partus preparators would be used “with the hope of ‘ensuring a speedy delivery’”. I do appreciate that Romm brings to light the question of why herbs would be used or needed to do what the body and your can do on its own.

After re-reading Romm’s stance on blue cohosh and feeling confused, I searched in my other herbals for more clarity, going first to one of my favorite herbalists, Rosemary  Gladstar. She discusses the controversy around blue cohosh, and reminds us that the study was done of one isolated constituent of the plant (caulosaponin) being injected to lab animals in finding a narrowing of the arteries. From this, scientists said that blue cohosh may be responsible for heart damage.

Gladstar also gives a good account of the uses of blue cohosh, discussing it’s wonderful use in speeding up slow or drawn out, long labors where it is combined with black cohosh and pennyroyal. It should be thought of as a specific medicine, not as a tonic or food herb, and should not be used until the end of pregnancy. She quotes Dr. Shook, a physiomedicalist, who said,

“This exceedingly valuable herb is well called ‘woman’s best friend’ for the reason that it is much for a reliable and far less dangerous at expediting delivery in those cases were labor is slow and very painful. This is a very old Indian remedy. They believe it to be the best parturient in nature, and it was the habit of their women to drink the tea several weeks before labor”.

Uterine tonics can be used to treat pain since they regulate the muscular activity of the uterus, making them to be more regular, rhythmic and orderly. Australian NP and herbalist Ruth Tricky also puts in her two cents regarding the blue cohosh controversy and neonatal heart failure. In one case, the mother of took three times the prescribed amount of blue cohosh, in another, the dose was not named. It is hard to detect a toxic dose when the dose by these individuals is not the recommended dose.

Tricky mentions blue cohosh along with dang quai, false unicorn root and raspberry leaf in a class of uterine tonics which “initiate regular uterine contractions and regulate uterine tone” (319). The references that Tricky reviewed indicated that some constituents of blue cohosh seemed to increase the contraction force and rates while another alcoholic extract of the whole herb increased uterine tone that decreased the rate and amplitude contractions (no wonder, since and herb is more than the whole of its parts, or in this case, the whole of just a handful of parts). Uterine tonics like these can treat hemorrhage because they are able to improve weak muscle activity of the uterus, but also relax excessive spasm. Specifically, Tricky (239) says that blue cohosh is use:

“…when spasm seems to be localized in the cervix, resulting in acute crampy pain was very little flow. Women with this pain pattern usually experience relief once the flow becomes established”.

Let’s not forget that blue cohosh is a muscle relaxant. If it’s good for the uterus, it can be good for other muscles with all of their tendoness attachments. Matthew Wood gives many other uses and indications for the herb including amenorrhea of young women, chronic uterine disorders, particularly of those with broken-down constitutions, insomnia and nervousness, rheumatic conditions for spasmodic muscular pain, sexual debility, joint pain and more. It is quite useful, though, for bringing on suppressed menstruation, relieving cramps and menstrual pain, especially when considering its anti-spasmodic nature. Woods says blue cohosh as a “menstrual remedy, it can remove congestion of the uterus from muscular and vascular constriction and tension often accompanied by malposition of the uterus”.

Blue cohosh is a great example of not boxing in an herb and based on its most popular use. Perhaps blue cohosh should be used as a tonic herb rather than an herb only to induce strong contractions at the end of pregnancy. Also we cannot judge the safety of an herb on a few isolated, yet incomplete, reports or studies. Single isolated constituents are interesting to study, and they can contribute to a the chemical and biological activity of the constituent, but their findings cannot be seamlessly extrapolated over the use of the whole herb.

If we use the herb when indicated, if we understand it’s personality, actions and historical usage, if we use the smallest dose necessary, and consider using it as a tonic rather than a strong single-purpose uses, if we take the few studies with a grain of salt and combine with other herbs to produce a synergistic individually made formula, than this and other much maligned herbs could be used safely and indeed very effectively.

——

Tricky, Ruth. Women, Hormones, and the Menstrual Cycle.

Gladstar, Rosemary. Herbal Healing for Women.

Wood, Matthew. Healing Wise – New World Plants.

Romm, Jill Aviva.The Natural Pregnancy Book: Herbs, Nutrition, and Other Holistic Choices.

Calendula – 0 Caterpillars – 1

November 4th, 2011 § 3 comments § permalink

 

All I have left from my calendula harvest this year is caterpillar poop. And some golden calendula flower oil, probably with a caterpillar or two in it. For all the flowers I picked, all the times I tried to meticulously remove caterpillars, and all the ways I tried to harvest and dry them, not a one remains.

My work room was invaded with caterpillars that crawled out of my harvesting baskets. For weeks (months?) on end, I found about 4 worms daily, tons of excrement, about 6 cocoons, and only one moth (thank goodness). In the end, I dumped all my harvest over the fence.

Next year, I will either find a way to deal with the bugs, or just admire my calendula when I am at the garden, and not attempt to harvest it.

So, instead of putting my garden-grown yellow and orange calendula blossoms into my favorite lymph cleansing teas, healing salves, and herbal facial steams, I have these photos look at. And when push comes to shove, it’s not that difficult to order some high quality organic calendula by the pound from Mountain Rose.

Garlic and Olive Oil, an Ear’s Best Friend.

November 3rd, 2011 § 1 comment § permalink

This is a post I shared a few months ago at my friend’s Suzie’s inspiring blog, Key & Bones. I want to share it because I am reaping the benefits of this extremely simple little remedy. Last week my ear started to feel a little funky/gunky, swollen, itchy. Each day it got a little worse until my left ear was entirely clogged for two days. Garlic oil, just a drop or two in the ear canal, every other day, relieved the irritation and opened it right up.

In the past I have made more of an ‘ear formula’, with another fabulous standby, mullein flowers. Now that I live in a city, my mullein flower harvesting has diminished. There are still plenty of mullein around, but not in my back yard garden like it was before (so spoiled I was, sigh…). Willow bark, cayenne, eyebright, St. John’s wort and calendula are some other options (among many) to add to your herbal ear oil.

I do have to say, however, that just plain good old garlic does the job quite nicely.

Garlic has been hailed as a super-food for millennia, and rightfully so. Every year it seems that the powers of garlic expand as the scientific community catches on to folk uses of of garlic. Recently, there has been investigation around garlic and weight loss, but it has long been know for other benefits. It is widely accepted as having anticancer, high blood pressure and high cholesterol reducing, antibacterial, antiviral, anti-fungal, anti-inflammatory, and immune-stimulating effects, in addition to being a nutrient-dense food.

One common folk use of garlic is an oil used topically and in the ear for infections. A 1995 University of New Mexico study looked at garlic oil’s effect:

“Aqueous garlic extract (AGE) and concentrated garlic oil (CGO) along with various commercial garlic supplements and pharmaceutical prescriptions were used in an in-vitro study. AGE and especially CGO were found to have antifungal activity. These agents showed similar or better inhibitory effects than the pharmaceutical preparations…” [emphasis added].

Garlic oil for medicinal purposes is easy to make and easy to use. It is essentially just like making culinary garlic oil, except that extra care is taken to strain all the garlic particulate out of the garlic before bottling. It smells delicious (in that garlic-y sort of way), and of course can be used for cooking, salad dressing and bread-dipping. Just store it away from the stove, so it doesn’t get the chance to raise its temperature. If you are making a large batch, use a wide-mouthed jar and store it in the fridge. Olive oil, being an unsaturated plant fat, will solidify in the fridge, so you’ll have to scoop it with a spoon and melt it before using in the ears.

Don’t waste any of that liquid gold, use a funnel.

Garlic Oil Recipe and Dosage:

  • Peel a few heads of garlic, trim the bottoms, rinse and air dry (or pat with a clean towel).
  • Lightly crush, chop well and let it chill out on your cutting board for a few minuets before adding it to the jar. Crushing the garlic opens the cells and allows health-benefiting alliinase enzymes (one of the multiple compounds in garlic) to become active. I don’t recommend using a garlic crusher, though, because it opens the cells too much, expressing a lot of the garlic’s water quickly. Introducing extra water to the oil to increase the likelihood of bacteria and mold growth, as well as promote oxidation and rancidity.
  • Add to a small jar, cover with extra virgin olive oil until a half inch of oil is over the top of the garlic.
  • Cover with a tight-fitting lid and let sit in a sunny window for 4-6 weeks, shaking every now and again (once a week or every-other day is good).
  • Occasionally, open the jar to check for extra moisture beads condensing along the lid. If there is moisture, simply wipe it off with a clean towel.
  • After steeping, strain the oil into a clean, dry bottle. This is the time to add other medicinal ingredients, if desired.
  • Label and date, store in a cool, dry place. Use within 18 months.
  • Use one drop for kids over 2 in each ear, and three to five drops for adults.
  • Drop the oil in, one drop at a time, while side laying. Drape a towel under your head, and adjust your head position so that the ear canal feels vertical. Play around with moving your head around to distribute the oil, lingering at any sweet spots, or tug on the ear and massage the area. Kids and dogs love that part.
  • Sit for a few minuets, maybe more if it feels good and you have the time. When you sit up, wipe the outside of your ear off with a clean towel. Yes, your ears will kind of smell like garlic. It should dissipate after an hour.
  • Administer twice daily for acute infections, once daily or every other day for a week for lingering problems (recovering from a cold, itchy ears, ect.) or once a week for maintenance (this is the best dosage for prevention).
    A warm oil is a nice oil…
  • Warm the bottle in a cup of hot (almost boiled) water for a minute or two before dropping in the ear, making sure to test the temperature before using. Warmth thins the oil, so it can penetrate the ear canal, and provides comforting relief for infections. A warm oil makes all the difference. If you are in a pinch, wave the dropper over a candle flame, being mindful not to spill the oil from the dropper as it thins. I loosely fix the label on the bottle so I can take it off when it is warming.

Now that you have your lovely garlic oil, what can you do with it? If you are like I was when I first heard of garlic oil, you will be asking, why would I want to put it in my ears? It just so happens that oil is very soluble in the ears because its normal environment is oily (well, waxy, but close).

Uses for garlic oil:

  • Ear infections.
  • To prevent swimmer’s ear, use a drop or two in each ear a few hours before swimming. Dry the ears extra well before swimming. Once swimmer’s ear has set in, it is best to avoid garlic oil.
  • Fighting a cold. The ears are closely connected with the nose and the throat, areas that first come into contact with microbes causing the common cold or influenza. A little garlic oil in the ears at the first feelings of a scratchy throat, drippy nose, itchy ears can sometimes kick the cold out before it sets in.
  • Excessive wax build-up, or gummy or closed ears. Use one drop daily in each ear.
  • Eat on food for the medicinal effects mentioned above, a teaspoon or more per day.
Good for four-legged friends, too.

 

Sources:

Lett Appl Microbiol. 1995 Jan;20(1):14-8. Antifungal effects of Allium sativum (garlic) extract against the Aspergillus species involved in otomycosis. Pai, ST, Platt, MW. Department of Microbiology, University of New Mexico, School of Medicine, Albuquerque 87131